Royal Oak Is In The Middle Of The Sky, Why Does Audemars Piguet Push The New Round Table?

A few days ago, some readers asked me eagerly: ‘Sister Rabbit, AP (Audemars Piguet) sales notification I can pay a deposit, 15500 (royal oak model) gold watch, more than 370,000, you said Should I take it down? ‘When referring to the 15500 blue hand map provided by Rabbit Powder, when referring to the three high-end explosion-proof steel watches on the market, AP (Audemars Piguet) ‘s Royal Oak is among them, and the heat has only increased. Originally, as a family business, holding the excellent results of 1.1 billion Swiss francs last year (a growth of 10%), it can still live a good life with stable income, but Audemars Piguet is a brand that loves tossing and it is in its own At its peak, a new watch was launched-and it was a round watch. AP officially released the new CODE 11.59 series in Shanghai. In the eyes of many people, the octagonal shape of the Royal Oak is quite recognizable. Although the round table is the most widely accepted, it is also easy to be mediocre. For AP, this step must have The risks are also controversial. However, since the CODE 11.59 series was launched in domestic stores in March, sales performance has quietly proved that this is a good start. I remember this year’s SIHH, the AP was ready to be released and the moment when the new watch was announced, there was still embarrassment. After all, a series prepared for many years, facing you all at once, always anxious for the voice of the market. But AP’s determination this time is so big that it can be seen at a glance. Generally speaking, the brand will push new products in a tentative way, such as first pushing a few simple entry models, and then adding various complicated models according to market reflections, gradually improving the entire series. But 13 models were launched in one breath, from three stitches to three questions, including 5 kinds of complex functions, and AP’s approach also surprised me a bit. Obviously, leave no room for yourself. But in many cases, the market relies on hard work and preparation. Today, the rabbit will take a closer look at what is interesting about the new series. First of all, the name CODE 11.59 is very special. At first glance, you may not know the meaning, but it is easy to remember. I remember in January in Geneva, Audemars Piguet Global Chief Executive Officer Fran├žois-Henry Bennahmias came to the exhibition hall and told us the meaning of the name: C stands for Challenge; O stands for Own (exclusive); D stands for Dare ( Fearless); E is Evolve, and 11.59 stands for 11.59, which means the moment before tomorrow arrives. I believe that these four words do not need me to explain too much, in simple terms, I am uneasy about the status quo and challenge myself. In fact, if we have seen various designs in Audemars Piguet’s history, we will not feel the arrival of this new series is a surprise. Geometrically designed watches in 1961 (left) and asymmetrically designed watches in 1962 (right). As the only Swiss watchmaking brand still owned by two founding families (Audemars and Piguet families), it has innovative genes. It’s the same thing. Although the new series is a common circular design, in my opinion, the topic is full. Strictly speaking, AP is not the first time to push the round table. After all, there was the Jules Audemars series before, but by comparison, CODE 11.59 has better recognition. This is a self-winding model. Rose gold with a black surface such as the case, it is actually an octagonal design embedded in the round case, you can see the difference from the ordinary round watch on the side. AP uses the classic three-piece case: the bezel, case middleware and case bottom. Although it is completely different from the Royal Oak in appearance, the hidden octagonal design retains the most distinctive details. Among them, the middle piece and the bottom are fixed with screws, but the difficulty lies in how to fix the lugs. AP spent 2 years testing the relatively rare method of ‘semi-fixed welding’. If you have the opportunity to get the real thing, you might as well observe it-the upper part of the hollow lug and the bezel are fixed by welding, but the next Half of it has a gap of 0.1 mm. This design has a certain degree of flexibility when worn, so it fits the wrist better. To this end, AP has also developed new equipment and production processes for the manufacture of lugs and case middleware. It is said that matting and polishing of external parts such as lugs and cases takes 2.5 hours, including 50 processes, and it takes 30 minutes to assemble a case alone. In addition, the easiest to feel the detail is the dial and logo design. I was also surprised by the real thing first. In fact, when the official picture of CODE 11.59 appeared, there were various voices on the Internet-questioning the shape is more popular. It’s easy to pick a stab, but it’s just too rash to point at the pictures. In fact, when the rabbit first started using the new watch, it completely transcended the look and feel of the picture. Because in many cases, in addition to the appearance of the product, the exquisite details directly determine the brand status. The self-winding chronograph, here is the difference between platinum and blue face luxury and ordinary daily necessities. It is necessary to mention the logo made of 24K pure gold. The length of ‘Audemars Piguet’ is only 12.5 mm. Each letter is connected by a gold wire with a diameter of 0.11 mm. Then it is fixed to the dial with 5 posts that are almost invisible to the naked eye. The lacquer dial of the self-winding and chronograph is treated with more than 8 layers of lacquer. Each layer of lacquer is polished with sandpaper. However, the logo of the automatic winding tourbillon and the minute repeater is enamel transfer, with enamel dial. Finally, let’s look at the movement. The new series shared 6 Audemars Piguet self-produced movements, 3 of which are brand new-chronograph movements with integrated column wheel and flyback function (Calibre 4401), Equipped with a self-winding movement (Calibre 4302) with a second hand and date display, and a self-winding floating tourbillon movement (Calibre 2950). Some people say why the rotor of the 4401 movement (left) was hollowed out, of course, not to save gold, but to consider the winding efficiency. After all, there is a 70-hour power reserve. 13 new watches, from three hands, chronograph, perpetual calendar, tourbillon to three questions, the first thing that attracted me was the white-faced three-hand model, no matter the picture or the real thing. In fact, when CODE 11.59 was just released, opinions on this watch were polarized-because the pictures could not express the real texture. But I believe in a certain intuition. It includes our understanding of brand instincts over many years. Quality control can be roughly estimated. China’s market performance after listing also proves my opinion-the sales of white-faced three-pin models rank second among all models. The boss is a red-gold black face chronograph. The new series was officially launched in domestic directly-operated stores from January to March this year. It has gone through many public opinion tests during the two months, but it also came up with a preliminary transcript. The difference between the guess and the fact is the market. interesting place. The most interesting thing is that CODE 11.59 has sold several large watches-including perpetual calendar and tourbillon. The perpetual calendar price is about 500,000, while the floating tourbillon is 980,000 (this price floats according to the Swiss franc exchange rate), and the hollow tourbillon is about 1.3 million. The blue dial of the perpetual calendar is very special, and these are included in AP’s VIPs. In other words, it turns out that AP has the most loyal top guests, and they have more than just ‘Royal Oak’ in their eyes. In fact, to tell the truth, all those who only chase hot steel models are not the true core consumers. In addition, as a new series, it is naturally used to attract new customers (those who have no sense of Royal Oak), and this purpose has also been achieved-more than one newcomer has bought CODE 11.59 as the first piece of their lives Audemars Piguet, including girls. Rabbit also inquired a very representative story: It is said that a customer entered a shop that had been paying homage to AP’s name. Before entering the shop, he was not obsessed with Royal Oak (not guided by public opinion and the market). When both watches were in front of him, he followed his heart and chose CODE 11.59. The market is originally diversified, and the explosive models are hot again. It is still only part of the vast sea. This is the truth. As a curious industry insider, as well as a consumer who spends money, rabbits are more than willing to see the market waves set off by a new series. Challenging yourself is far more profound than challenging your peers. Regarding CODE 11.59, I was optimistic even in the initial discussions. Firstly, it has no conflict with Royal Oak and will not affect the existing strong market. Secondly, its recognition is better than the previous Jules Audemars series. Even if it compares the various round tables horizontally, it has its own outstanding characteristics. Most importantly, planning ahead (but relying heavily on the royal oak’s strong position) must go further than satisfying the status quo. It can spread the risk, even if you can’t see it now. Rabbit strongly recommends that all those who are accustomed to ‘looking at pictures and talking’ may wish to walk to the store to try it out, and let the action guide the judgment. The last thing I want to say is to set aside prejudices and never try to figure out the entire market from a personal perspective and preferences, because it is far more complicated than we think. The gossip rabbit is only original, welcome to repost!