In the field of jewelry, men always seem to be forgotten. Except for the faint shiny cufflinks and the exquisitely crafted diamond watch, men and jewellery have almost no intersection. It’s just that the fashion industry is taking advantage of the concept of neutrality. A brand new jewellery style was born, rigid, smooth and stylish-men finally seized the opportunity.
Ironically, before that, all the tireless efforts in the field of men’s jewellery were brought to naught. Only this time, the neutral design strategy unexpectedly overcome this bottleneck. The fashionable appearance, excellent workmanship and chic style have once again captured the hearts of men and women in the return of the neutral trend of the 1960s and 1970s.
Decades of waiting
Bulgari’s B Zero-1 unadorned ring (£ 940) is made of gold with a mix of black and white ceramics; or Italian marble in green, bluestone and tobacco brown. Chaumet’s black ceramic Liens ring (£ 1044) with a diamond chain. Boucheron’s best-selling Quatre ring (2230 pounds) is made of four layers of gold: threaded gold, rhodium-plated white gold, square brown gold, ribbon rose gold; the latest styles are Featuring matt black gold, it is popular among men.
In the same spirit, Juste un Clou, launched by Cartier last year, reproduces the vibrant design wave of the last century. In 1971, Italian designer Aldo Cipullo, the designer of the Love bracelet, made a humble piece of raw materials and nails into this iconic piece of jewelry. This casual and chic design not only conquered women, but also captivated men. The rebellious, tough inner temperament, under the smooth signature of Cipullo, is full of strength, temperature and wisdom. To be sure, Cipullo has well explained the fast-paced hedonic life and dizzying social process in the city represented by New York; these elements are integrated into daily jewellery, giving it freshness and forward-lookingness. At the same time, it does not fall into the nostalgic conventions.
Forty years later, Juste un Clou anklets and rings have not lost their appeal to people. The design this time still emphasizes modernity and actively takes into account the customer’s aesthetics; the difference is that the neutral design focuses on breaking the stereotype between jewelry and gender, and pays more attention to the role of men in the jewelry market.
Louis Vuitton’s Lockit collection (from £ 1280) is also transgender. This design is inspired by some tradition: as long as lovers fasten a padlock on the railing of the bridge and throw the key of the lock into the river, they can get a permanent love. So there is a gold lock on this unadorned ring (from 1600 pounds) or an anklet (from 4550 pounds) and a gold key-shaped pendant. Of course, the key was not used to throw it into the water, but was handed over or kept by the partner of the jewelry owner. ‘We have been looking forward to the emergence of men’s jewellery for 20 years, and now we are finally looking forward,’ said Hamdi Chatti, Louis Vuitton’s director of watches and jewelry.
The creation of the ‘Stalker’ Shamballa
Men’s wearing bracelets has become an unexpected trend, but has achieved the most prominent symbol of neutral style in the field of jewelry. Shamballa jewelry can be described as one of the ‘starters’. The silver bracelet with beaded and fringed lace (from 3,400 pounds), which firmly clung to the wrists of men, successfully opened up the men’s market under the eyes of big names.
Shamballa’s Danish creative director Mads Kornerup had the idea in 2001; four years later, he founded the company in Copenhagen with his brother.
The inspiration for the bracelet is rooted in the beads. According to Kornerup, the key factor for the success of the bracelet is the spiritual dimension contained in it; there is also a custom service for customers, you can choose the color of the bracelet and raw materials such as beads according to personal preference.
Kornerup can be described as a new continent dedicated to men in the luxury jewelry industry. ‘Always, jewelry is exclusively for women; the chemical reaction between jewelry and men has just begun. Bracelets can be a good starting point. In a social sense, the image of a man is no longer limited to masculinity-although only A piece of jewelry does not have the ability to shape or change that quality. ‘
At first, Kornerup used simple gold beads in his bracelets, but when he added diamonds and rare Argyle powder stones on this basis, he actually captured the hearts of many women. Shamballa’s bracelets, necklaces and rings are now accepted by both sexes. This season, they have added more lively colors such as ruby, sapphire, moonstone, turquoise and coral (from £ 12,100).
Men’s Jewelry Girlfriend Wants To Borrow
Gender ambiguity has always fascinated jewellery designer Hannah Martin. She described her debut so-called ‘men’s jewelry that girlfriends want to borrow.’ This creative philosophy has remained in her later creations. She realized that jewelry could be both a super-feminist item and a representative of male elements; therefore, she began to design a style that could cross the gender boundaries of men and women.
‘Behind each of my works is an imaginary character, each character representing a different male style,’ she explained. For example, her Vincent seals (from £ 400) or royal rings (from £ 6,300) are inspired by old-school gentleman outfits. Her design style combines sculpting and painting, and the details are atmospheric and sexy. The best examples are like her Shackle gold anklet (£ 10,800) and her Spur ring (from £ 295). Martin’s customers are both men and women, and her business partner Nathan Morse admits: ‘Neutrality has driven our business.’
Japanese designer Atsuko Sano decided to design jewelry for men because it would give her greater creative freedom. ‘As a woman, my creation is always limited by my tastes, habits, and reference standards. When designing for men, I can discover new shapes, forms, and combinations.’ She was surprised to find black or white The rhodium-plated AS series (from 430 pounds) is also quite attractive to women. So she designed a women’s collection with gold and precious stones. The latest men’s collection of Cosmic rings (from 430 pounds) and anklets (from 1700 pounds) incorporate a flat treatment that women also like in futurism.
Cross-domain style starts again
Interdisciplinary styles abound in the jewelry industry. When men’s bracelets have become an acceptable business dress, this trend has also attracted other modern designs, including Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée anklets (from £ 4900) And ring (from 570 pounds) and Tiffany Atlas anklet (4250 pounds).
The classic and heavy chain once again appeared in people’s sight. For example, the same is the new Pomellato 67 series sterling silver adjustment chain (960 pounds), and the pyrite Safari tooth pendant with chain links (1915 pounds). Dior’s Gourmette ring (from 450 pounds) is a return to the identification bracelet in the neutral wave of the 1960s.
It looks like the pendant will be the next target of neutral transformation. De Beers’ Talisman Medal (from £ 8650) blurs the line that divides between men and women in the design. Men love the beauty of rough diamonds, exquisite without being rough; the simple and enthusiastic tone is embedded with beaten gold and carefully embellished fine diamonds. De Beers concluded that the larger pendants were basically snapped up by men, with men from Asia as the representative. They were attracted by the same shape of these amulets. After all, diamonds did make people think of guardianship and success in ancient times.
For Julia Muggenburg, the designer of Belmacz, the quality of the ‘talisman’ is obviously the key factor that led to the popularity of pendants in the men and women market. ‘Now men are becoming more idealistic and women are more confident,’ she said. Based on these two changes, she designed a new style of chain (£ 1270)-a dim and quaint silver chain The ring has a silky texture, low-key but full of design. Muggenburg added: ‘It was created specifically for the current ‘city pirates.’
The trend of jewelry design is constantly swinging between the sexes. Even traditional men’s tie clips can evolve into women’s pins, which can be worn alone or in combination. For women, a rough and conspicuous pin became a symbol of honor; for men, cufflinks were once a way of self-expression-whether elegant, wise or quirky, but now brooches have replaced them. The location of the cufflinks forms a bolder element of clothing. Cora Sheibani’s Cloud Silver Pin Set (£ 3200) perfectly caters to both men and women.
Light and shadow, yin and yang, men and women, and jewelry design have endless possibilities.