Over the past three months, the development of wristwatches in the field of bracelets has been remarkable. The development we are talking about here does not just refer to the evolutionary version of the current deposit type. In fact, a real new generation of chain belts is emerging. In this article, we use bands as a general term for straps and bracelets.
So, the bracelet is an important part of the watch … or is it just a decorative accessory? Toss this question to ten people, and the answer you get may be 50-50. One side believes that the bracelet is just an accessory, without which the watch can still function perfectly; the other side believes that sometimes the bracelet has a high level of technology and is not simply a jewelry. How important? Without it, the watch cannot be worn!
Void arguments? Not so. Breaking down the number of brands’ recent investment in chain belts can make consumers understand its significance. Summarizing the basic trends can be roughly divided into three stages of development.
First and second generation: Trailblazers
As far as materials are concerned, leather and stainless steel dominate. The first-generation development trend is a simple continuation of the case material, resulting from the titanium metal and ceramic chain. Radar, Chanel and Lav Lauren are all outstanding representatives.
Chanel J12 series, iconic ceramic bracelet
But speaking, in fact, the jewellery watch maker is already in front. The most common case is a diamond-set watch with a bracelet often decorated with the same diamond. Recently, Graff released a jewellery watch called ‘Fascination’, a pear-shaped case, an integrated bracelet, and luxurious diamonds. Chopard is naturally unwilling to fall behind, such as the new Heure du diamant high jewelry watch. This is also the second generation of the development of belts-abandoning traditional leather, stainless steel and gold, and using alternative materials to create it by master craftsmen.
But according to today’s trends, the true third generation is on the rise.
Third generation: Conqueror
The third generation development trend is composed of some avant-garde brands, which use cutting-edge technology to create new combinations from original materials, which are more free and creative. At this year’s SIHH in Geneva, Roger Dubuis’ design was impressive. For the first time, diamonds were set on rubber bezels. This unique combination is expected to continue on the bracelet soon.
Roger Dubuis skeleton flying tourbillon watch, rubber bezel diamond technology paves the way for the development of the potential of the bracelet
At the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show in 2015, Athens Watch used a similar design on its new nautical perpetual calendar model, so rubber diamonds may be the next development trend of watch bracelets.
A new chain model developed by Hesike, with rubber as the main structure and embedded H-shaped (steel, titanium or gold) components
Recently, Hysek has released an exciting new option-embedding H-shaped (from the brand’s initials) stainless steel, titanium or gold elements in a rubber strap. The H-shaped element is connected to the rotatable lugs through a rotating shaft, which facilitates optimal adjustment and ensures the most comfortable fit to the wrist. This strap is attached to the latest Abyss 44mm chronograph.
Montblanc Timewalker DLC chronograph bracelet with special processing
Montblanc TimeWalker DLC chronograph’s inner strap is made of black high-tech vulcanized rubber, which guarantees the best durability and flexibility. The calfskin tightly stitched to the rubber is treated with an impregnation process, and the surface of the chain is bonded with an exclusive technology to increase its structural strength. This innovative technology produces high-performance, innovative leathers that are resistant to abrasion, heat, water and fire.
From link to two-in-one chain
Richard Miller “Open Link” chain strap, only for women (at least in theory)
At this year’s SIHH, Richard Miller’s 100% gold chain was very impressive. This bracelet is only available with RM 07-01 and RM 037 ladies watches.
Sunway Sand Reversible Chain Belt
Shang Weisha also launched an original and successful design solution. At the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show this year, the latest Terrascope models launched by Shang Weisha are equipped with vulcanized rubber double-sided reversible chain straps. Crocodile leather is stitched on one side and decorated with a sporty stripe pattern on the other. The only shortcoming at present is the lack of a convenient quick exchange system. If the whim is inevitable, we will run into trouble for the watchmaker.