At the annual Basel show, the innovative products of major brands are always amazing. Similarly, at this year’s Basel event, many more innovative products came out. Innovation is the primary driving force for the watch industry.
With the rapid development of watchmaking technology today, with the help of new technology, novel and peculiar innovative functions and innovative structures have emerged endlessly, and have received high attention from the industry and the media. However, behind these ‘revolutionary’ creations, some Changes in the field of basic parts are easily missed.
For example, Tissot recently launched an 80-hour long-powered movement. From the perspective of the industry environment, a movement that can go for 80 hours does not seem to be worthy of a big book. 7-day power, 14-day power, and even 31-day long-power movements are not a few. 80 hours is enough. Hanging teeth? But if I say this is an improved movement based on ETA2824, how would you feel? The power of the original ETA2824 is 42 hours. Without changing the original size and the layout of the wheel train, the power is doubled. Isn’t this a pioneering initiative? From 40 to 80, instead of changing one place, you can succeed by changing one part. This movement has made a series of adjustments in power, transmission and escapement. Specifically, under the condition that the size of the barrel is unchanged, the thickness of the mainspring is thinned and the mainspring toughness is increased to increase the mainspring length; the number of gear teeth of the transmission gear is increased, the transmission ratio is improved, and the transmission efficiency is improved; a silicon escapement is used Replace traditional gem forks to reduce friction; use weight balance wheel instead of fine adjustment screws to ensure accuracy. Through this series of means, the power of the watch has been doubled. Obviously, there are no inventions and innovations, and there is no advanced technology. This is called system optimization and structure optimization. The driving force is not the inventions and changes, but the optimizations and the ‘crowding’. This design concept is also my most valued and respected. There is nothing extraordinary about taking out a single part, and the effect is doubled when combined together. This is not only system integration, but also innovation.
Tissot Haoji Series Watches
Tissot mechanical power 80 movement with 80 hours of power
There is no absolute standard for innovation. What suits you is the best. This year, Kunlun launched the self-winding Ti-Bridge watch. We know that the original Golden Bridge watch did not have a self-winding function because it was a linear movement, and the traditional automatic top could not be installed on a linear movement. Later, Kunlun developed a slider automatic winding device for Jinqiao watches, which solved the problem of automatic winding. It is available on Ti-Bridge titanium bridge watches. Because the linear movement changes from vertical to horizontal, due to the gravity of the earth, the slider cannot slide freely and cannot play the function of automatic winding. Back to the old way of winding manually. Looking at the back of this year’s self-winding Ti-Bridge watch really surprised me. An unprecedented self-winding device comes into view. Two circular automatic discs are arranged side by side, and a connecting rod connects the two automatic discs together, looking like the wheels of a steam locomotive. When the wearer’s arm shakes, the two automatic dials run synchronously and can be wound in both directions, so that the Ti-Bridge watch also has an automatic winding function. In this way, whether it is a vertical gold bridge or a horizontal titanium bridge, it has a full range of manual and automatic styles. The unique winding mechanism of Kunlun is not of great significance to the industry, and it will not become a big one. News, but it successfully ended its own problems. Although this invention did not attract much attention, who can deny its value?
Kunlun Ti-Bridge Automatic Dual Winder
Uses unique dual auto dial and two-way winding mechanism
Some innovations have attracted worldwide attention and are obvious, while others are unknown and easily overlooked. In this era of rapid changes in ideas and technology, these innovations will become the driving force of industry progress. Innovation, regardless of size, is indispensable driving force, visible and invisible.
At this year’s Baselworld, Girard Perregaux’s constant-power escapement watch became the focus of attention. The unique escapement mechanism of this watch has been amazing for 5 years from its conception to its successful development. Our magazine paid attention to the escapement several years ago. From the perspective of industry technology, it is a watch that uses a constant power device in the escapement in the true sense. In the past, the constant power device was mostly used in the transmission gear of the watch, and did not involve the escapement speed regulation mechanism. This Girard Perregaux constant power escapement watch incorporates a slender wave spring in the escapement mechanism. The energy released by the hairspring is stored again, and is divided into small sections and small sections, which are released to two escapement wheels to form a constant force escapement, which makes the watch’s torque line stable and the power output stable, which is another major innovation in the industry in recent years.
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